Mickey Mouse Wine Selection in Ontario
by Konrad Ejbich
Illustration by Tak Bui
Depressing, what sheltered lives we're
forced to live here in provincial Ontario.
Having returned from a four-day tour
of wine regions in Austria, followed by a three-day mega-tasting
where thousands of local wines were poured, I had hoped, Dear
Reader, to guide you through the exciting offerings of the liquor
monopoly.
Alas, there was but one Austrian white
available and it was delisted earlier this week. Meanwhile, the
only red was not available in many, including my neighborhood
outlet. When asked, what kind of store is this anyway, the clerk
unhesitatingly replied, "Mickey Mouse. I can only concur.
Weingut Fischer 1997 Blauer Zweigelt
Wulkatal ($9.80) is a respectable and well-priced hamburger helper
but it hardly reflects the wide variety and high quality of wines
produced in Austria's 16 growing regions.
Occasionally, Austrian specialty wines
appear at Vintages outlets. Two are currently on offer.
Frei Weingärtner 1998 Grüner
Veltliner Federspiel ($11.55), from Austria's signature white
grape variety, has zippy acidity, fullish body, and a crisp,
lemony, herbal, peppery taste that,s unbeatable with asparagus,
green salads, seafood and goat cheese.
Klosterneuburg 1998 St. Laurent Ausstich
($19.80) has forthright plummy flavors, with just enough bitter
tannin to give it structure and balance. Big enough for beef;
light enough for veal or pork. Perfect with wiener schnitzel
and warm potato salad.
Austrian wines, both white and red,
are the perfect summer sippers, as their vibrant acidity and
solid fruit flavors pair so well with casual cuisine and fresh
summer salads...
( For more please go to:
Drinks / eye magazine)
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